African American hair is unique in its texture and requires more moisture and conditioning to remain healthy. This can make dealing with dandruff more challenging, especially since some factors that contribute to dandruff are exacerbated by having darker, tightly curled hair.
Dandruff 101
Dandruff occurs when your scalp produces excess oils, or sebum. This oily buildup feeds and provokes the growth of yeast on your scalp, causing inflammation and irritation. When your skin cells die because of this irritation, they flake off – and that’s what we see as dandruff. While dandruff affects all ethnicities, some races are more prone to it, especially those with darker skin tones and tightly curled hair follicles.
The Dandruff Struggle for Black Hair & Skin There are certain issues that make black hair and skin more vulnerable to dandruff. For one, black skin has a lower rate of lipid production – the ability to produce natural oils and sebum. That’s why black people tend to have less oily skin. However, the sebum on their scalps is often overproduced, which can lead to dandruff.
Additionally, those with darker skin are more likely to suffer from psoriasis – when skin cells become overactive, causing irritation and dandruff flakes. The melanin in darker skin inhibits the protein that regulates the shedding of dead cells. So when they don’t shed properly, cells get clogged and irritated, increasing psoriasis risk for black folks compared to white folks. Psoriasis also flares up more during high stress when the immune system kicks into overdrive.
Environmental Dandruff Dangers for Dark Skin
There are also environmental factors that can worsen dandruff for those with African American hair. Chemical-laden shampoos/conditioners with artificial fragrance or sulfates can dry out the scalp, causing dandruff. Using too much heat styling with curling irons or flat irons can damage hair, triggering an inflamed, flaky scalp too.
Finally, hard water with high mineral levels can leave buildup on the scalp that sparks dandruff. And let’s face it – some of us grew up in areas with notoriously hard water. It’s worth being proactive to avoid this dandruff trigger.
The Best Shampoos & Products for Black Scalps When choosing a dandruff shampoo
look for gentle ingredients if you have sensitive skin. Some top options for black hair include Head & Shoulders 2-in-1 Clean & Fresh, Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, and Selsun Blue Medicated. In general, sulfate-free shampoos can be helpful for preventing dandruff.
For conditioner, go for a gentle, non-irritating formula like Aussie Miracle Hair Repair, Foltene 24 Hour Miracle Repair, or Dr. Brantley’s Hair Revitalizer.
Tips If Dandruff Persists
If these tips haven’t helped, visit a dermatologist. Sensitive skin can make dandruff trickier, so find the right treatment plan for your skin type. A derm can pinpoint your dandruff cause and recommend targeted solutions.
As with most things, prevention is key for dodging dandruff. Taking a few extra minutes in the shower with the proper shampoo and conditioner can go a long way toward keeping your scalp – and hair – healthy and flake-free.
Conclusion
Dandruff plagues all hair types, caused by oil buildup that irritates the scalp. But dark-skinned folks are especially susceptible since their skin has lower oil production yet overproduces sebum on the scalp. Using the right hair products and being mindful of environmental dandruff triggers can help keep African American hair sleek and dandruff-free.